Few would guess that this Japanese grocery store has passed through three generations of two different families — the Katagiri brothers, who gave the shop their name, and the Tanakas, who respected the founders’ wish not to rebrand the business. In fact, Katagiri professes to be the oldest Japanese grocery store in the United States. Though KC Central took over the business and expanded into imports and exports in 2012, this has not affected Katagiri’s role as a reliable source for anything from salmon roe and wagyu beef to packages of udon noodles.
“There have basically been three owners throughout our century-long history, but what makes us special is that we have always remained the same. We sell everything from Japan; it is pretty simple,” shared Masami Inoue, who manages the 59th Street location. “I am so grateful that we continue to survive and keep the tradition going.”
Another constant is the fishmonger, Eikichi Hara, who has trekked to 59th Street at 4 a.m. every day to cut the fish for over forty years. Originally from Niigata, Japan, Mr. Hara — fondly referred to as Chief or Hara-San — trained as a sushi chef before migrating to the U.S. as a teenager. His expert knife work makes him a treasured fixture at Katagiri. “He is a good representation of our old-world feel. Many customers come just to see his beautiful fish lined up in the store.”
